Paddling the Black River
- 3 hours ago
- 5 min read
Think about the last time you were in a place where you were truly alone, outside in nature. World events are speeding by you, but what fills your thoughts is nothing but the sound of wind in the trees, the burble of water over rocks, and your paddle entering and exiting a cold stream.
Maybe you have never been that close to nature before, or perhaps it’s been a very long time. This week I was given the gift of a peaceful nature adventure with both new and old friends along the Black River in northern Michigan. It was a day filled with fresh air and only the six of us on the water.
The upper Black River, situated near Tower, Michigan, is located in the Lower Peninsula. The river is known for its lake sturgeon spawning sites, brook trout population, and as the natural habitat for the threatened wood turtle.
Getting There
I had never been to this part of Michigan so the drive from Petoskey to Tower was a fun exploration. I took County 68 through Indian River, across the entrance to Interstate 75, and headed East. The speed limit was 65, but I had a hard time getting over 50 because the scenery was undisturbed and relaxing to gaze at.
Arriving at our designated spot, I parked my car on the side of the road next to the others. Emily, Liv, and Joe were the leaders of our exploration while Mark, Paul, and I came along to see some new property that had just been purchased and donated to the Little Traverse Conservancy.
Little Traverse Conservancy
The Little Traverse Conservancy (‘LTC’) has a very simple mission. To protect the natural diversity and beauty of northern Michigan by preserving significant land and scenic areas, and fostering appreciation and understanding of the environment.
Having hiked many of the LTC trails and supported the organization, I can confidently say that LTC does amazing work. Their mission is thoughtful and their staff fully believe in the preservation work they do.
On The River
As we left land and began paddling, we immediately hit choppy and swift moving water. I hadn’t kayaked since last summer, so I was little apprehensive. After successfully passing this first rough patch I settled in to a guided drift down the river.
Liv, at the front, kept pointing out wood turtles that she spotted. I think we passed six turtles before I actually saw my first one because they were so well camouflaged. I thought I needed my eyes checked!
A wood turtle getting some sun. Wood turtle getting ready to enter the water.
Seeing this many wood turtles was a good sign. In writing this piece, I learned that Michigan’s wood turtles are threatened. If we actually saw as many of this species as we believe, it is a great sign and yet another reason to preserve this natural area. We likely passed more than we saw because their shells are the same color as the felled trees that they perched upon.
After maneuvering around several downed trees and large subsurface rocks, we rounded a bend and encountered a young porcupine.
It was struggling to climb a steep embankment. Of course we all paused to watch the courageous youngster, and as he neared the top, he lost his footing and tumbled back to the water’s edge!
After pausing for a moment, it began the ascent again, but first turned its head to us as if to say, ‘Move along, please.' Sensing it did not appreciate us as its cheering section, I wished it good luck and drifted again down the river.
Viewing The Property
When we arrived at the LTC property, we went ashore and looked around. What I saw were tall trees reaching for the sun and some starter oak trees taking advantage of the space to grow big and tall.
Moving away from the group for a moment I paused to listen to the sounds around me. All I heard was the wind in the leaves above me and nothing else.
The property we paddled to is a significant piece of land with a large stretch of shoreline on the Black River. The land, as we learned, is undisturbed except for a dirt track path.
Looking at it from the water, I saw nothing but wild forest. Knowing that the turtles and porcupine call this home makes me glad that it will never be developed.
The Journey’s End
After about two hours of winding along the Black River, our parked cars came into view. It was then, as the river deepened and widened that the wind picked up. Gone was the easy journey, replaced by some serious paddling to get to the shore.
As I paddled to shore, I briefly looked up and saw a bald eagle flying overhead. We all paused to see our Nation's bird making an appearance.
Wow, what an experience this was. As I pulled my kayak ashore, I felt so full of life, hope, and peace. I know that I am a lucky woman to get a chance to paddle this undisturbed stretch of river. What brings me joy is knowing that countless others will be able to enjoy the same sights and sounds for decades in the future.
Being out on the water, seeing only a handful of homes, and only one other person as we paddled by, gave me hope that there still are places where unencumbered nature exists.
Thankfully, organizations like LTC are here to preserve and manage the lands for future generations to visit and enjoy.
If You Go
The property is not ready for visitors yet, but by 2027, you should be able to hike, ski, and I believe, hunt with permission. Check the LTC website for further information. LTC has many local trails and properties in northern Michigan to check.
While You Are Nearby
If you have some spare time after your explorations, I’d encourage you to drive a bit further on 68. Onaway is a small town with an impressive history. It was the home of the American Wood Rim Company.
Founded at the turn of the twentieth century, the company used the abundant forests around them to create wooden bike rims. When autos arrived, the company expanded its reach to make wooden steering wheels including the ‘spider’ (metal center of a steering wheel).
At one point in time, the company was making 65% of all the wooden bicycle rims made globally while also being considered one of the finest wooden steering wheel manufacturers in the world.
Another interesting fact about the company is that they were almost entirely self-sufficient. They generated their own electricity, could strip and shape the wood onsite and also fabricated the Spiders on site as well.
Remains of the original factory. The original housing for the waterwheel.
Sadly, in 1926 there was a devastating fire which caused the company to shutter the plant and relocate. Today, what stands on the former factory property is Awakon Park. This is both a sculpture park and an historic site to remember the town’s amazing manufacturing history.
Gerald Ford who grew up in Grand Rapids, MI Abraham Lincoln Statue of Liberty
Moran Iron Works stands near the old factory complex today. Clearly it is Moran’s hope to provide current jobs for local residents and keep Onaway’s history alive.
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